Steel, in BDSM terms, has a fantastic charisma. It is cold, it is permanent, it doesn’t give in. It is the real thing, whether it be chains or cuffs. However, there are quite a few things to consider here.

Steel requires locks and locks require attention. Never ever use any steel restraint or lock you have only one key for. Secondly, test every lock prior to use and if it doesn’t feel right, throw it out! The last thing you need is the fire department in your bedroom to cut through chains and cuffs that will not come off anymore.

Also, never ever use locks to interconnect chains that are next use for suspension! Too much strain on a padlock will deform it and …… it won’t come off anymore. Besides, it might snap. Use connectors instead, there are many different ones around.

Secondly, steel and locks require maintenance. To lubricate locks, use graphite power, not oil of any kind! Clean your steel toys regularly and keep them lightly lubricated.

For all steel cuffs the following is important: well designed steel cuffs have a “return lock”. This will provide the cuffs to tighten unintentionally. ONLY buy cuffs with such a feature. If there isn’t one, don’t buy it, it will sooner or later do major damage to a joint!

The other thing: cheap locks and steel cuffs are a guarantee for major trouble. They will deform, locks will break or the whole thing will break when you least need it. Never ever go for cheap cuffs – buy quality!

Steel is unforgiving!

Steel will not give in. If anything gives in under pressure, it will be the body! When you use steel cuffs, it is a good idea to use something under them, such as sweatlets. And never ever close steel cuffs too tight. Leave some room for it to move.

Steel cuffs were designed for police use, not for erotic play. The police largely does not really worry about a damaged nerve end. You however have to. Steel cuffs are designed to hold prisoners, so if you use them, use them wisely and with great care.

SPREADER BARS

Spreader bars come in a wide variety of sizes and designs and they are a handy toy.

Their main objective is sexual exposure, but they can do other things as well, such as hobble. Steel spreader bars are your best choice, but if that is out of your financial range, wood will do nicely and “The Workshop” section holds easy instructions on how to make spreader bars yourself.

There are a few things to observe, when setting out to buy a spreader:

• If you can find one, buy a telescopic one. That will allow you to adjust the spreader to your needs and desires.

• Buy one with detachable cuffs, which will make it more versatile.

• If you only buy one, buy one that is not overly long. Something in the range of 60 centimeters/20inch will do nicely. Of course longer (hence wider legs) is appealing but a somewhat smaller size allows you to use it for more purposes (such as a standing bondage)

• There are different ones for knees. Make sure if you buy one the cuffs that come with it ar big enough to fit the leg ABOVE the knee

Bear in mind that spreader bars are not fit for suspension. They are only there to spread.

If you have the option, buy a spreader with a detachable, telescopic T-bar, one that goes up and can hold one or more dildo’s in place.

THUMB/TOE CUFFS

Thumb cuffs are small devices, used to attach toes or thumbs. They are very restrictive and “merely” cuffing toes or thumbs is very frustrating. Again, take care. Finger and toe joints are easily dislocated and the thin bones break quickly. Tighten them, but not overly tight and never put any putting tension on them!

The two main manufacturers of steel cuffs are the USA-based Smith and Wesson factories and Dutch-based Lips. These supply every major police department in the world. Hence, your best best is to buy any of these brands. You can find them in the better-equiped BDSM-store, in army dump stores and “security” shops.

Things to watch for when buying cuffs or chain is that you are actually buying steel, not some chrome plated cheap version. Chrome will come off very quickly and you never really know what is underneath. If it doesn’t say “stainless steel” on the package, it isn’t!

Also make sure all individual shackles are welded, so they will not accidentally bend open. Steel chain especially looks very strong, but the reality of it is that it isn’t that strong really. You cannot see metal fatigue for example, which may occur suddenly and unexpectedly.

Tip: Never every buy fancy looking twisted chain – that is very nice for decoration purposes, but has no practical value and is actually very, very weak.

All articles are provided for informational or entertainment purposes only. We are NOT responsible for any injures or other results that participating or partaking in such activities might cause. Everything you read on this page is based on the personal opinion of the author and does not always reflect those of the owners and / or staff of Wasteland. If you try anything found in this article, you do so at your OWN risk!

Always remember! SAFETY FIRST! and please use common sense.

The above article is a reprint from our information/educational site Kink Culture.
A joint project between Wasteland and PowErotics
Copyright © Hans Meyer