The following contains brief descriptions of each piercing and suggested jewelry. Healing times offered are estimates. Please keep in mind that healing time and success rates vary from individual to individual.
Please remember that body piercing is an inexact science. The content of this document reflects the continual advances and new findings made in the field of body piercing. The information contained in herein is culled from group knowledge and experience. Each person’s experiences regarding piercing viability, healing, and longevity are different. Thus, opinions on almost all aspects may vary or conflict.
1) Ear Lobe
2) Large Lobe Piercings
3) Transverse Lobe / Lateral Lobe
4) Ear Cartilage
5) Nostril
6) Septum
7) Eyebrow
8) Niebuhr / Erle / Bridge / Nasion
9) Lip & Labret
10) Madonna / Chrome Crawford / Marilyn / Angel’s Kiss
11) Cheek
12) Scrumper
13) Tongue
14) Tongue Frenulum
Ear Lobe
Initial healing: 6 to 10 weeks
Usually, the ear lobe is the least sensitive piercing, in terms of metals that can be worn after healing. Lobe piercings can be stretched quite easily. The stretching process should, however, be a gradual one. Eyelets can be worn to maintain a stretched piercing.
Ear lobe piercings heal better and faster if a ring is the initial jewelry. Sleeper studs installed with a piercing gun are collection sites for bacteria and are difficult to clean. They are also of one size, and one size does not fit all, especially if the earlobes swell beyond the capacity of the stud. Studs also have a tendency to clog/twist with hair, embedding the hair in the piercing.
The action of the piercing gun is far more traumatic than the piercing needle procedure – the studs are considerably duller than a single-use needle, thus literally tearing a hole through the tissue, whereas the needle slices a clean hole the gauge of the jewelry to be installed. A cleanly made hole is especially important in the case of cartilage piercings, notably upper ear and nostril piercings, which many jewelry outlets are performing with the piercing gun.
More importantly, the cleanliness of the piercing gun method is questionable. Although the piercing studs themselves may be sterile, the piercing gun is not and cannot be properly sterilized in an autoclave. Even if no visible contamination of the piercing gun is evident, it is exposed to blood and blood plasma microspray due to the strong spring mechanism. The gun is also cross- contaminated if the piercer touches the studs after they are installed and then touches the piercing gun without changing gloves. Although many stores performing piercings with the gun claim that their services are safe and sterile, simply wiping the gun with a surface disinfectant is not adequate to kill blood-borne pathogens.
Initial jewelry: Captive bead rings, bead rings, barbells, circular barbells (in the case of larger gauges, circular barbells may not be best initially, as the weight of the jewelry may prolong healing and be uncomfortable); 3/8″ to 1/2″ in diameter, from 18 to 10ga.
Large Lobe Piercings
The size of your mobe and how close the piercing is to the bottom edge will determine how far you can stretch.
From Shannon Larratt (glider@io.org), one method that has been tried with success: “The piercing is made with a dermal punch, usually 2-3.5mm depending on the lobe and the desired effect. A taper is used to stretch the hole. Since the surface tension is relieved by using a dermal punch, the stretch is an easy (and large) one. The final piercing size is usually between 6 and 2 gauge. It is important to use light (often titanium)jewelry for healing. Healing time is the same or slightly faster than a standard lobe piercing.”
Some piercers, including the Association of Professional Piercers, feel that dermal punches are inappropriate for performing piercings, and that their use constitutes a true medical procedure.
Transverse Lobe / Lateral Lobe
Initial healing: 6 months to a year
Piercing made through the earlobe perpendicular to a standard earlobe piercing. People with large, unattached earlobes are the best candidates for this piercing.
The transverse piercing can be made so that it intersects with an enlarged lobe piercing; in this case the transverse piercing is two piercings which may decrease healing time. If an eyelet is drilled to fit the transverse piercing, the holes must be perfectly smooth with rounded edges.
Initial jewelry: Straight and curved barbells, 1/8″ longer than the width of the piercing to allow for proper cleaning. If a ring is chosen, it should be large enough in diameter so that the piercing is not made to conform to a tight arc, which can cause the piercing to migrate or reject.
Ear Cartilage
Initial healing: 3 to 6 months, depending on location and gauge
Should be pierced using a needle at least one size larger than the jewelry to be worn (e.g. 18 gauge jewelry, 16 gauge needle) to allow for new skin to form around the inside of the piercing and for easier cleaning.
It has been noted that piercings at 20ga, and sometimes 18ga, have a higher instance of migration and rejection.
Cartilage piercings have a tendency to develop Keloids (scar tissue) in some people. It has been noted that keloids tend to form more often around the exit hole, due to the action of the needle, which slices a crescent-shaped opening.
Cartilage piercings stretch very slowly, if at all. Stretching a reluctant piercing may contribute to keloiding.
A few piercers have performed cartilage piercings using a dermal punch. The theory behind this method is that since the dermal punch cuts-out a circle of cartilage, the piercing will have more room to heal. Stainless Studios reports that they have the best luck using dermal punches on all cartilage piercings larger than 18ga. “The best results are generally had by dermalling out the hole (in 6mm or larger), and then NOT putting any jewelry in it, so the hole heals empty. However, they note that it is important to make sure that at least a small hole in the scab stays open (otherwise the hole will heal shut, even a large one). This can just be done by inserting a taper through the hole periodically. About 3-4 weeks later, the scab plug will fall out, revealing a fully healed hole.” Please see the Body Modification Ezine for dermal punch procedural images <http://freeq.com/underground/bme/>.
Some piercers, including the Association of Professional Piercers, feel that dermal punches are inappropriate for performing piercings, and that their use constitutes a true medical procedure.
Other piercers prefer to pierce with as large as a 10 gauge needle and stretch the piercing by small increments after it has healed if a larger hole is desired.
This piercing is often done with a gun; however, the stud installed can be too short for the piercing, and both sides of the stud are collection sites for bacteria. An ear cartilage piercing should be treated as a body piercing.
The specific piercings of the ear are:
Conch: Piercings made straight through the shell of the ear cartilage. The Conch piercings are sometimes described as either “lower” and “upper”, the dividing line being the Crus helicis. Depending on the location, either a ring or a barbell may be used. If a barbell is used, it should be 1/8″ wider than the thickness of the cartilage to allow for swelling and proper cleaning. A ring may not be advisable in some locations if the wearer sleeps on his/her side.
Helix: Piercings made through or around the upper, curled edge of the ear, including the curled edge towards the face. If the curl is extreme or wide, a piercing made parallel to the plane of the head through the apex of the curl will be more comfortable. In this instance, a piercing made perpendicular to the plane of the head would require a large diameter ring to allow for proper healing which would be too large to comfortably fit between the ear and head. Initial jewelry: rings in 18 to 12ga, 3/8″ – 7/16″ – 1/2″ in diameter.
Tragus: The prominence of cartilage in front of the opening of the ear canal. Ear cartilage suggestions follow here. Care must be taken when cleaning this and other cartilage piercings such as the Rook, Daith, and Conch – cleaning solutions must not be allowed to drip into the ear canal, as this could lead to permanent loss of hearing. Initial jewelry: rings in 18 to 14ga, 5/16″ to 3/8″ in diameter.
Antitragus: A piercing is made through the extrusive ridge of cartilage opposite the tragus. In some cases, a straight or curved barbell is advisable over a ring. Initial jewelry: rings and barbells in 18 to 14ga, 3/8″ – 7/16″ – 1/2″ in diameter/length.
“Daith”: A piercing made through the Crus helicis, the inner-most ridge of cartilage above the Tragus. Of the interior ear cartilage piercings the Daith is usually the most successful as it is not subject to pressure from sleeping and irritation from daily activities. Initial jewelry: rings in 18 to 14ga, 3/8″ – 7/16″ – 1/2″ in diameter.
“Industrial”: Refers to two or more piercings through which a single barbell is worn. An Industrial can involve piercings of the helix curl, tragus, lobe, Conch, or Rook. If the relative angles will put stress on the piercings, two separate pieces of jewelry should be worn during the healing period.
“Rook”: A piercing made through the antihelicis, the ridge above the “Daith” ridge. Rook piercings have been noted to be more prone to rejection / migration. Initial jewelry: rings in 18 to 14ga, 5/16″ to 3/8″ in diameter.
“Snug”: A horizontal piercing of the antihelix, across from the tragus. This piercing is very anatomy dependant. Straight and curved barbells are usually chosen as the most unobtrusive style of jewelry.
Nostril
Initial healing: 3 to 6 months, depending on location and gauge
Placement is usually somewhere along the groove in the nostril, where the cartilage is thinnest.
Nostril Screws are the optimum jewelry choice for those wishing the look of a stud. They feature a small curved “tail” at a right angle to the stud that holds the jewelry in place without the need for a clasp on the inside of the nose. Because nostril screws are more difficult to clean and may not accommodate swelling associated with a fresh piercing, it is recommended that the piercing be well-healed before a screw is worn. Otherwise opt for a screw with a shaft length of at least 5/16″ to 3/8″.
Initial jewelry: Captive bead rings, bead rings in 20 to 14 gauge, 3/8″ to 1/2″ inside diameter, occasionally as small as 5/16²; the ring should not hug the edge of the nose. As with ear cartilage piercings, nostril piercings should be done with a piercing needle a gauge larger than that of the jewelry to be worn.
Septum
Initial healing: 6 to 10 weeks
The piercing should pass through the thin layer of tissue between the alar cartilage (outer) and the quadrangular cartilage (separating the nostrils). This area is usually at its roomiest towards the tip of the nose. This piercing can easily be stretched after healing to accommodate eyelets.
If the piercee anticipates wearing spikes and tusks, the piercing should be made low enough to allow the jewelry to fit comfortably below the nostrils.
Initial jewelry: Captive bead rings, bead rings, circular barbells, septum retainers in 20 to 10 gauge, 3/8″ to 1/2″ inside diameter. U-shaped septum retainers are available for those who need to hide the piercing. Rings are, however, easier than retainers to clean during healing.
An option to buying two pieces of jewelry – ring and retainer – is to use a small diameter circular barbell with the gap between the balls expanded enough to be comfortable flipped-up into the nose. This may not work for everyone, however, depending on the optimum location of the piercing and the desired aesthetic. The most common sizes used thusly are 14 and 12ga, 3/8″ to 7/16″ diameter, with 5/32″ balls.
Many styles of spikes, tusks, and curled tusks are available for those desiring a more primal look.
Eyebrow
Initial healing: 3 to 6 months; healing can be extended if the piercing migrates towards the surface.
The eyebrow piercing is usually placed perpendicular to the eyebrow, so that the ring encircles the eyebrow. The piercing is usually between 5/16″ and 3/8″ wide.
Since this piercing is essentially a surface piercing, chances of migration or rejection are higher. The chance of the piercing growing out or migrating may be reduced by reshaping the ring into an oval so that the portion of the ring that is worn through the piercing is straighter.
Too thin a gauge and the piercing will tear when pulled accidentally and will contribute to migration or rejection. Too heavy a ring and the ring will be pulled downwards by gravity. Some piercers perform eyebrow piercings too deep under the misguided theory that it will migrate into place.
Initial jewelry: Captive bead rings, bead rings in 18 to 14 gauge, 3/8″ to 7/16″ inside diameter; diameter of the ring should be at least 1/16″ to 1/8″ wider than the length of the piercing. Straight or curved barbells 3/8″ to 7/16″ post length; straight barbells may migrate or reject when the area of the piercing is very flat or if the skin is taught. Eyebrow retainers are not recommended for fresh piercings because they are not secure.
It is not uncommon for eyebrow piercings to swell or bruise *slightly* after piercing. Any swelling or bruising occurring later during healing or any intense bruising and swelling could signify that the piercing was made too deeply.
Niebuhr / Erle / Bridge / Nasion
Initial healing: 2 to 4 months
This piercing is made through the tissue between the eyes (bridge of the nose). This piercing can be both difficult to both perform and heal. This piercing must not be made too deep, or one riskes piercing blood vessels and nerves that are found on either side of the bridge. The piercing is usually 3/8″ to 9/16″ wide.
Initial jewelry: Barbell studs or curved barbells in 14 – 12 gauge, 1/2″ to 5/8″ in length; barbells should be 1/16″ to 1/8″ to allow for proper cleaning.
Lip & Labret
Initial healing: 2 to 4 months
Traditionally, the Labret piercing is usually made about 3/8″ to 1/2″ below the middle of the lower lip, through or just above the cleft of the chin, although lip piercings can be made anywhere along the outside of the lip.
If a thinner gauge is desired, a labret stud can be used to heal the piercing to avoid tearing of the delicate tissue inside the lip, and a ring can be worn after healing. A thinner gauge of ring may have a tendency to tear the inside of the lip, especially on new piercings.
Labret studs and barbells tend to cause deterioration of the inside of the lip and of the gumline; this deterioration is, in most cases, minimal and will only continue until a niche has been formed for the ball or disc. Labret piercings made too high or at an angle may continually erode the gums or tooth enamel, or may even push teeth out of place over the longterm.
Fishtail Labrets were invented to counter this problem. For a fishtail to stay in place in the “valley” below the gumline, the piercing should be made as low as possible. The presence of a frenulum may prevent ideal placement for a fishtail.
Some piercers prefer to angle the Labret piercing so that the disc is above the teeth line (as demonstrated in the Gauntlet “Pierce With a Pro Video #2″). This placement will avoid gum/lip deterioration but may present problems with biting down on the jewelry inadvertently.
Initial jewelry: Captive bead rings, bead rings, barbell studs, Labret studs – a ball which screws into the front end of the bar, a disc which either screws in or is fixed to the back; internally threaded jewelry is strongly advised for this piercing, as external threads can reopen even a healed piercing; Fishtail Labrets; 16 to 10 gauge, 3/8″ to 1/2″ inside diameter or post length. The initial stud should be at least 1/16″ longer than the width of the area to be pierced to accommodate swelling.
If you opt for a Labret Stud, make sure the disc is thin with rounded edges. Sharp edges will contribute to gum and lip erosion. If you opt for a Fishtail Labret, it should be made of a flexible metal (gold, annealed or 1/4 hard steel) so that is can be adjusted to fit your mouth comfortably.
Labret jewelry will collect plaque, especially in the crevice between ball and bar. Wear and scratches on the jewelry can contribute to plaque accumulation. Daily use of an anti-plaque rinse is recommended to prevent plaque build-up. To remove a build-up of plaque, soak jewelry in an antibacterial denture cleaner following the package directions.
While smoking may be irritating but not necessarily damaging to a new piercing, the use of chewed tobacco products is highly discouraged in the case of any oral piercing as the use of chewed tobacco has been attributed to oral cancers and lesions.
Madonna / Chrome Crawford / Marilyn / Angel’s Kiss
A piercing made above the upper lip, usually to either side, using a Labret stud. So-named because of the resemblance to the aforementioned idols’ natural beauty marks. Jewelry should be selected follwing the guidelines for Labret piercings.
Placement should be made so that the oral portion of the jewelry will not irritate or erode the gums or tooth enamel. In some cases, Fishtail Labrets may be the best jewelry option for the location.
Cheek
Initial healing: 3 to 5 months
Initial jewelry: Labret studs; 14 to 10 gauge, usually at least 1/2″ in length; a longer piece of jewelry is usually required for the healing process to allow for swelling. Precise measurements and placement are necessary to prevent nesting. Piercings of the cheek are rare, as they are deemed too risky by most piercers because of the proximity of blood vessels and nerves.
Scrumper
Healing time: 1 to 2 weeks
This is a piercing of the upper lip frenulum. The look could be descibed as a septum ring for the mouth. The piercing is performed with the aid of a needle receiving tube. The chance of tearing with frequent play should be considered because of the thinness of the frenulum.
Over the longterm the jewelry can contribute to gum or tooth enamel erosion.
Initial jewelry: Rings in 14 gauge, 5/16″ to 7/16″ in diameter
Tongue
Initial healing: 4 to 8 weeks
Tongue piercings are usually placed in the (left-right) center of the tongue. The placement should be decided with regard to the length of the tongue both in its normal resting position in the mouth as well as when it is extended.
While there is some latitude as to how far forward or back the piercing is placed, a piercing made through or just behind the natural bend in the tongue is comfortable for speaking and eating. A piercing placed too far forward will irritate and possibly erode the gums. A piercing placed too far back will cause pain and discomfort when the tongue shortens in its normal resting place in the mouth and will irritate the frenulum, if one is present. A tongue piercing should be as perpendicular to the tongue as possible (ie. straight). A backward leaning piercing may irritate the gums of the bottom teeth.
In addition to gum erosion, chipped teeth and enamel erosion is also a risk of tongue piercing. Smaller balls (in addition to downsizing the bar length) are advised if the wearer bites down on the balls frequently. Over the longterm, metal tongue and Labret jewelry will contribute to the erosion of tooth enamel. Wearing plastic balls can reduce the risk of chipping or enamel erosion.
If a large frenulum is present (the web of tissue which runs lengthwise along the underside of the tongue, usually present in most people to some degree), the piercing should be made in front of it. If the frenulum is small the piercing can be made to one side of it. If the frenulum is large or extrudes it may become irritated by the jewelry. A smaller bottom ball can reduce the possibility of irritation.
If the frenulum presents too much difficulty in placement, the piercee should consider having the frenulum clipped by a dentist or oral surgeon. This procedure is performed when the frenulum interferes with speaking or some other daily activity.
Any irritation to the bottom palate will usually subside or callous. Otherwise, smaller balls are advised. Irritation to the gums should be watched closely for signs of deterioration. In some cases a smaller ball will cause more deterioration than a larger one. If the gums begin to deteriorate badly, the piercing should be repierced slightly behind the original placement.
Tongue piercings made through the front and side edges of the tongue using rings have been successful for some people, but for most the presence of a ring impedes eating and speaking. If such a piercing is desired it is important to use an initial ring large enough to allow for swelling and that the placement avoids severing any of the large blood vessels which are usually present on either side.
Initial jewelry: Barbell studs; 14 to 10 gauge, 5/8″ – 3/4″ – 7/8″ – 1″ in length. Many piercers will not use 14ga or even 12ga because of the risk of tearing the piercing. During the first 24 to 48 hours, the tongue usually swells to almost twice its normal size; swelling will begin to recede after 3 to 5 days. The initial stud should be at least 1/4″ to 3/8″ longer than the tongue at its thickest to accommodate swelling. Too short a barbell can make the balls “nest” into the tongue.
Standard ball sizes for 14 and 12ga are 7/32″ or 1/4″; for 10ga, 1/4″. 3/16″ balls are available from most manufacturers for 14 and 12ga.
The jewelry may be downsized in length after the swelling immediately around the piercing has gone down, usually after 3 to 4 weeks. Downsizing the jewelry both in length and in ball diameter will usually correct any eating or speaking impediments. Some people do choose to wear their “starter” jewelry with no interference at all.
Jewelry which is internally threaded at both ends allows for easy removal, insertion and cleaning. They are also easier to insert upon piercing using a short piece of wire to connect the barbell and needle. Barbells with one fixed ball should not be used – the bottom ball can become “glued” to the shaft with plaque making removal difficult or impossible.
Tongue barbells will collect plaque, usually on the bottom ball, especially in the crevice between the ball and bar. Wear on the jewelry (scratches incurred from contact with the teeth) can contribute to plaque accumulation. Daily use of an anti-plaque rinse is recommended to prevent plaque build-up. To remove a build-up of plaque, soak jewelry in an antibacterial denture cleaner following the package directions.
Occasionally a protrusion of soft, white scar tissue will form around one or both of the entrances. The skin is actually scar tissue formed by your body as it tries to cope with the implanted foreign object (jewelry) and is not a sign of infection. In some cases the flap is a displaced or intersected tastebud. Usually the excess tissue recedes into the piercing or falls-off on its own within a week to two weeks. Continue cleaning the piercing as recommended by your piercer for the remainder of the healing period. If you are using Listerine, switch to an alcohol-free mouth rinse such as Biotene or Oral-B. The alcohol in Listerine could be a source of irritation. Some people have found rinsing with warm salt water helpful in shrinking the excess tissue. Once the piercing has healed and toughened, you should not experience any more problems. In extreme or persistent cases surgical removal by a dentist or oral surgeon is the safest solution.
Ocassionally, a hard bump of scar tissue can form. If the wearer plays with the barbell a lot, the gauge may be too thin for the stress. 14 and even 12ga piercings have been known to tear with extreme playing or stretch forwards with constant playing.
Some people successfully use an aspirin and water paste to dissolve the excess growth, if less harsh methods are unsuccessful. If you choose to follow their example, please keep in mind that you may run the risk of seriously damaging your oral tissue if the solution is left in place too long, or if you are allergic to aspirin.
If scar tissue forms long after the healing process is complete, examine your jewelry closely for scratches, nicks of plaque which could be irritating the piercing. Daily use of an anti-plaque rinse is recommended to prevent plaque build-up. To remove a build-up of plaque, soak jewelry in an antibacterial denture cleaner following the package directions.
If an indentation forms around the ball and it covers half or more of the ball, the barbell is too short and / or the piercing is at a front to back slant (top hole further back than bottom hole). If the surface of the tongue is forming a white circle around the ball, the mucous layer on your tongue and your taste buds have become too dried out.
If the piercing bleeds while you sleep or upon waking, you may be sleeping with your mouth open which dries out the piercing and causes the clot to adhere to the jewelry and reopen the wound when the barbell is moved.
While smoking may be irritating but not necessarily damaging to a new piercing, the use of chewed tobacco products is highly discouraged in the case of any oral piercing as the use of chewed tobacco has been attributed to oral cancers and lesions.
Tongue Frenulum
Initial healing: 2 – 4 weeks
A relatively new piercing gaining popularity among experienced piercing enthusiasts. The piercee must have a very large frenulum to be safely pierced; there must not be any visible blood vessels. The piercing should be made in the center of the triangle of the frenulum and not too close to the base of the tongue, where there are blood vessels and glands present. The most common and usually short-term problem is scarring. The chance of tearing with frequent play should be considered because of the thinness of the frenulum. As with all oral piercings the accumulation of plaque must be attended to.
Initial jewelry: Bead rings and captive bead rings 14 to 12ga 5/16″ to 7/16″ in diameter; for people with tongue piercings, a small curved barbell is usually better suited, unless the relative placements, ring diameter and tongue barbell ball size allow for a ring.