Position

Before you try anything drastic or complicated, one of the most important things when it comes to puppy training is for her to master the basics – and that may not be easy as both of you think. Dressage – long and regular – is a must for all forms of animal role play and hence dog play is no different. So, let’s start with the very basic position and take you through the various aspects of it.

On All Fours

The basic position for a dog is on hands and knees (simply because her legs are too long to have her on hands and feet all the time). In order to create a situation she can handle relatively easily, make sure you get this position right, which means:

Arms (front legs/paws) – Placed directly under the shoulder (at shoulder-width) to create maximum support and minimum stress, fingers fully stretched and the hands pointing outside in a 30 – 45 degree angle (to avoid unnecessary stress on the elbows and shoulders) and the arms fully stretched, so the pressure is absorbed in the shoulders and not in the biceps and triceps (which is painful after a relatively short period of time).

Legs (hind legs/paws) – On the knees, lower legs stretched backward in parallel position, feet and toes stretched backward, aligning with the lower legs (this avoids cramping of the calves, which will happen is her feet are curved). Knees exactly in line with the hands – this creates a slightly triangular position of the legs, which will provide a better support for the weight of the hips and also leaves her vagina and anus exposed for inspection or practical use.

The head – This is the most difficult part of the basic position. A dog is attentive and makes sure she can see (or at least hear) her owner at all times, so she must have her head up (chin neatly parallel to the floor). This is difficult, because it requires muscle power in the neck and shoulders. There will soon be fatigue with novice dogs, so this requires regular and frequent training to work up that muscle power and develop her neck and shoulder muscles.

This position also lines the puppy up for instant punishment on her behind, which is nicely curved and offers the buttocks and back-thighs for instant disciplining or correction, should this be needed (frequently soft to very mild whip or paddle correction will help greatly during dressage and training).

Shifting Weight

From this basic position the dog can start to learn to walk on all fours, which again requires quite a bit of training. The first thing to learn – if she is to move about gracefully and stylishly – is to shift her weight. In simple steps, a full four leg motion goes something like this:

1. Move left arm (front leg/paw) – shift the shoulder weight to the right, lift the left arm and move it forward to the point where the fingers – if she stretches her hand can still just tough the floor. Slowly lower the hand while shifting the shoulder to the left.

2. Move right leg (hind leg/paw) – shift the hip weight to the left, lift up the right leg entirely (keep lower leg in the same 90 degree angle) and move it forward (same distance as the left hand). Slowly place it on the floor again while shifting the weight to the right.

3. Move right arm (front leg/paw) – as described above

4. Move right leg (hind leg/paw) – as described above

Making Turns

Making a turn on all fours gracefully is something that will never work, until the puppy learns to turn her head in the desired direction first. Instead of trying to make the turn by turning the arm she is about to move into that direction, what she should do is turn her head in the desired direction first, thus almost automatically pulling the outer arm in that direction as well (which is exactly what real dogs do). The trick is for her to learn to look into the direction she is going, instead of letting the head follow the direction of the arms and shoulders. Dogs literally follow their head (so do cats and many other animals by the way). The reason for this is that – contrary to humans – almost all mammals not only have restricted eyesight, but more importantly their nose is their main means of navigation and identification.

Stopping

Instead of making instant stops, the dog needs to learn to finish her moves so her hands and knees will neatly line up and end up next to each other when she stops. This again will require some training. Quite a few dogs end up bumping into walls or furniture in the beginning, before they understand they need to plan ahead, when having to stop. A good way to help her is for the dom not to say “stop”, but – in the early training stages – instead say the command slowly as “now …. you … stop”, so she can move in sync with these three words. The command should be given when the first arm in the total sequence has been placed on the floor and the first leg is about to be moved. This is what those with a military background will remember as “giving the command on the step”.

Dressage Tricks

The easiest way to teach a dog how to move about is by using a special training harness. This is something you will have to make yourself, but that is easy, because it can be a few simple ropes. What you need is either a belt, a rope (or a scarf if you prefer the softer approach) around her waist with a handle on either side, which allows the owner to walk behind her and guide, steer and correct her by means of the handles.

This way you can direct the weight shifts for each step, which will almost naturally result in the move.

Blindfolding her during these exercises will help greatly, for two reasons:

1. She will learn to listen to her own body and concentrate on what it feels like, rather than on what she sees around her

2. The dog will learn to trust her owner and follow his command, no matter what. In the beginning she will be uncertain and afraid to bump into walls or objects, but eventually she will learn to forget about that and simply trust the owner on his commands. At a much later stage this will be extremely valuable.

 
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The above article is a reprint from our information/educational site Kink Culture.
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